Sunday, September 02, 2007

Slummin' it in Dubai!

Anyways, so because of the reasons outlined in the previous post, I am in Dubai, and I have no job, no more fancy hotel reservation (and no, Laure, no fancy gym either), no source of income (so I’m living off the money reserved for the trips I’m not taking), and more interestingly, no visa which expired a few days ago.
A great change, all in one day. Charming.

Why did I not leave the UAE, then, you wonder? Well because I’m waiting for the French consulate to give me a silly stamp that proves that I indeed have a French residency permit. It should have taken what, 10 days? I did the same procedure painlessly in Boston. Here, ha, it’s been 6 weeks. I’ve called them -and the French authorities in Paris, and actually putting the two in touch - every single day for the past 2 weeks.
This consulate really is incredibly, and I mean incredibly, incompetent and slow. And rude - they hung up the phone on you.
Seriously, when I worked for UNHCR, we treated refugees better than they treat visa applicants.
Anyways, I digress.

So I left my suitcase and laptop at Tarek’s, and am currently ‘slumming it’ in cheap hostels and backpacker inns. But as it’s the summer and there are very few backpackers, well, my hostel (the cheapest I could find, $50. Dubai...) hosts a number of newly arrived (illegal?) immigrants. And I’m the only I’ve seen in the past 2 days.
If there is a silver lining to this disaster though, it’s that I’m getting to enjoy the real, downtown Dubai - forget those fancy skyscrapers! - and also getting a very close look on the lives of the immigrant, ‘guest workers’ population. Lonely Planet in hand (i put the Iran book in my bag and got the 'Arabian Peninsula' one out..) I'm touring the city on foot - shorts and Boston Red Socks cap on.

It’s incredible how downtown Dubai is probably more similar to a town in the Indian subcontinent than it is to the Arab world. The flashy lights of the shops, the food… even the Hindu temple I saw today. The nearby shopkeeper gave me some sort of bracelet with what I assume to be a Goddess on it - Mata, if I’m not mistaken (anyone wanna correct me on this one?) that I hung to my backpack.
I've seen entire streets with signs in Hindi or Urdu.
I've even seen prices nominated in Rupees!!
Welcome to Little India, a.k.a. Downtown Dubai!!!

So, anyways, living it backpacker style, albeit a very frustrated, angry - and solo -backpacker. I’m totally fine backpacking solo, but when the fit hits the shan (:-) I could use some company.

My bits of wisdom for today:
a) the lonely planet 'arabian peninsula' is outdated. Don't trust it.
b) if you're getting an ice-cream to walk around, only order one scoop -- the other one will require a straw by the time you get to it.

Photos as soon as I get a hold of my laptop.

7 comments:

Rachell said...

I am sorry to hear that your trip to Iran/Afghanistan got halted by the powers that be. :( For example, I would love to visit Iran but I am sure politics from both the USA/Iran would prevent me. I am sure it must have been swell to travel (way back in the days) without a care in the world. Just packing your bags and let the wind dictate where to go next. Heck, I would even like to visit Chechnya! I also would like to visit odd places but what is going on in those countries/places is what makes them interesting.

Cheers for better times to come.

Y said...

sorry to hear about all your troubles!!
:(

Juka said...

WOW! Sorry about canceled trip and about dire living conditions. Have you tried looking up any of our friends living in Dubai, I can think of a couple. E-mail me.

Anonymous said...

Just came across your blog under the tag Sam Power (I'm a fan of hers as well!) and am really enjoying it. Keep up the work! (B+)

Mohamed said...

Anonymous: Thanks :) but hands off Sam, she's mine!
(and B+? Okay... and pointers or tips to improve this blog? I'm getting tired of B-pluses! :))

Juka: thank you love. Well i'm kinda running around the UAE with a backpack now. Am in Abu Dhabi -- geez, boring! :) sorry :) -- and will probably hit Al-ain later.

Y: thanks, i appreciate you dropping by!

Rachell: EXACTLY!
And frankly, i have this sparkling irani and afghani visas in my passport that seems to be calling me, like the Ring was calling Frodo...
BTW, Iran is happy to have US tourists, but it's more difficult to get visa, you have to go through a travel agency (and since egypt and iran don't have diplomatic relations either, that's also what i had to do.)

Rachell said...

I have read a book "Persian Mirrors" by journalist Elaine Sciolino (an excellent book about contemporary Iran) and she talks about many Americans visiting and absolutely loving Iran. I think, as a woman, I might not be as free to travel and really explore the country as I would like. But, going with a travel agency might be ideal. I think Iran does not let Americans travel "independently" but with an escorted tourist agency. In my own naivete I hope that relations will get better... wishful thinking, I guess.

Mohamed said...

Well, Rach, I'm not allowed to go without a travel agency either since we have no relations with Iran... but there are always ways around it. And even Americans get a travel agency to issue their visa and then take off on their own...
And according to people like those interviewed in the book you mention (well, i'm less cultured than you so i just read what people say on the Lonely Planet website:) they're loving it and so do Iranians...
You alwaus give it a try ;)