Ramallah, 3:09 am, exactly one hour before Fajr prayer time. Outside, amidst the Quran reading for Qiyam prayers, I hear a drum - DumDumDum-DumDum. DumDumDum-DumDum.
It's the Mesaharati - that very old tradition, of a man passing through the streets with a drum, waking up people to eat their late-night meal, the suhoor, before the fasting day begins.
I thought the Mesaharati no longer existed!!
It's the Mesaharati - that very old tradition, of a man passing through the streets with a drum, waking up people to eat their late-night meal, the suhoor, before the fasting day begins.
I thought the Mesaharati no longer existed!!
I jump on the roof through my kitchen window, as I hear the drumming and chanting getting louder.
Instead of the old man in a funny outfit we grew to imagine, it was 2 guys my age with a drum, looking like a 2-man marching band. Very cheerful chaps, really, and besides the very traditional chant of “Wake up, sleeper! Praise the One God!” they also come up with their own chants, including “catch the good month before it goes away!” and “you’re going to be hungry!”
I chase them down the street in my pajamas, chat a minute with them - they still have a long round to go! - and snap a photo.
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